Chef of the Week: Chef Jeong-In Hwang of San Ho Won, San Francisco

Dish & Tell Team

1. You spent time honing your skills in French kitchens and worked closely with Chef Corey Lee at the three-Michelin-starred Benu. What was the most significant technical lesson you took from that refined, fine-dining environment that you now apply to the seemingly more casual setting of San Ho Won?

Although San Ho Won is a casual dining setting, our kitchen work maintains a high level of refinement. The techniques and systems I learned at Benu have been instrumental in building a strong foundation for our cuisine and restaurant here at San Ho Won. Consistency is paramount in any kitchen, and to that end, we established a system at San Ho Won that is similar to what I experienced at Benu.

Consistency is paramount in any kitchen, and to that end, we established a system at San Ho Won that is similar to what I experienced at Benu

2. After years immersed in French and modern Western cuisine, what was the defining moment or realization that made you pivot and decide, “The best thing I can do is make delicious Korean food”? Was this a professional or a personal moment?

I spent my twenties immersed in fine dining French cuisine, where I honed my skills and eventually became a senior chef under Chef Pierre Gagnaire. While I deeply enjoyed my time there, I eventually realized there were cultural nuances within French cuisine that I, as a non-French chef, might never fully grasp or master.

During this period, I also felt a strong desire to cook and present Korean food to others. The turning point was seeing Chef Corey’s sensational opening of Benu, the first modern fine-dining restaurant with a significant Asian influence. Witnessing his success deeply inspired me and fueled my passion to showcase the cuisine of my own country.

3. How has the global rise of Korean culture (K-pop, film, beauty, etc.) influenced the way diners abroad experience Korean cuisine, especially in fine dining?

When I first started working overseas, I found it challenging to find Korean restaurants, even in major cities like London, Hong Kong, or Paris. I often had to travel to specific areas to find quality Korean food.

Over the past 15 years, the global rise of Korean culture, including K-pop, film, and beauty, has significantly influenced the way diners abroad experience Korean cuisine. This increased interest in K-culture has created a broader audience and greater demand, which in turn has enabled my generation of chefs, who trained and worked in professional kitchens, to successfully open and introduce fine dining Korean restaurants to a wider public.

4. San Ho Won is a collaboration with Corey Lee. What does the creative relationship look like between you two? How do you balance your day-to-day execution with his overarching vision for the restaurant group?

Having worked at Benu for nearly ten years, I have developed a strong understanding of Chef Corey’s culinary philosophy. Additionally, my vision for Korean cuisine has been significantly shaped and established during my time at Benu. As a result, we share a very similar taste and vision for Korean food.

When creating dishes, we collaborate closely by sharing ideas, defining concepts, developing and testing dishes together, and providing mutual feedback for revisions. This collaborative approach ensures that we are both aligned with the overarching vision for the restaurant group while I manage the day-to-day execution.

Kimchi Jjigae Pozole; Photo credit: Eric Wolfinger

5. The restaurant successfully bridges humble Korean home cooking (jjigae, banchan) with Michelin-level technique. How do you decide which elements of a traditional dish must remain authentic, and which are opportunities for refinement using modern ingredients or methods?

When we create a dish, the most important factors are the flavor profile and the ensemble of high-quality ingredients. Especially here in California, I prefer to use top-quality local vegetables, seafood, and meat. Adapting to this environment naturally creates a different dish, but it remains rooted in the essence of the original.

I also consider the palate of our diverse audience. While traditional Korean food is delicious, some dishes can be challenging for non-Korean diners to approach, so we adjust the flavor, texture, spiciness, etc.

For example, Tteokbokki (spicy rice cake stew) traditionally uses rice cakes made with 100% rice flour, though in modern Korea, wheat flour is also sometimes used. To appeal to the local taste, we use a mixture of half rice and half wheat flour. This gives the rice cake both a satisfyingly chewy texture and a softer, paste-like texture that is more familiar to our local audience.

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